As Erik Greenberg Anjou’s documentary Deli Man notes, Jewish delis have dwindled in popularity over the past century. Locally we’ve seen numerous delis close: Jerry’s in Beverly Hills and Solley’s here in the Valley. We’re sad to report that Marv’s Delicatessen, a Valley Village institution since 1954, may also become a statistic.

Herman “the German” Belkin took the reins of this homey deli with black-and-white checkered floors and a fridge full of Dr. Brown’s soda on June 4, 1981. For a Jewish deli, Marv’s has a surprisingly focused menu with iconic deli meats like corned beef, pastrami and tongue, plus a specialty that gets special care: brisket.

Hot Brisket of Beef ($9.95) comes on a choice of bread (choose rye) with mustard and Swiss. Beef is Black Angus, marinated in salt, pepper and garlic, steamed for three hours at 450º and finished in the oven for one hour. Ask for horseradish if you like it spicy. Brisket—or any other sandwich—comes with a choice of cole slaw, potato or macaroni salad.

Despite such delicious, authentic fare, the changing landscape here in the Valley may make Marv’s a thing of the past. In a story we keep hearing, the building recently sold and the new landlord is on the verge of doubling or tripling rent. Whether you favor brisket or not, be sure to support a historic Valley restaurant … before it’s too late.

12512 Magnolia Blvd., Valley Village, 818-763-0616