New: Goldie's Rotisserie Offers "Old Country" Cuisine

In a Sherman Oaks strip mall, Goldie’s Rotisserie serves up a legacy.

Unless you’ve got time to spend, don’t get Dennis Stein started talking about his Grandma Goldie Stein and the history of recently-opened Goldie’s Rotisserie (that warning comes from his amiable business partner Larry Lorin). Never mind, just shut up and listen—it’s a good story. Goldie came to America from Russia in 1905 and dished up her legendary rotisserie chicken in the family restaurant in Boca Raton, Florida in the 1980s. Now the late Goldie is with us in spirit right here in Sherman Oaks.

Goldie and Jake Stein, 1968

The location has changed, but the recipes haven’t. This eat-in, takeout establishment offers crispy-skinned roast chickens, chicken wings with assorted sauces (Asian, BBQ, buffalo, lemon garlic and raspberry), rich creamed spinach (to die for), Teddy Roosevelt baked beans, mac 'n' cheese and other sides typical of a full-service deli or a good barbecue. Everything is homemade, served on paper plates. Just as Goldie might have, the menu points out that the Mish Mosh applesauce does not come from a jar.

A word about the ribs: The taste is very different from what you might find at most U.S. barbecues and soul food restaurants, usually flavored with smoky rubs or sweet-spicy red sauces. This Russian recipe is more like brisket on the bone. “It tastes Jewish!” says Larry, laughing. We’ll take his word for it.

Owners Dennis Stein and Larry Lorin

4344 Woodman Ave., Sherman Oaks,  818-849-5341  

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