Don’t let the postal code moniker fool you.  The Vietnamese-inspired eatery, 9021Pho, actually has a Sherman Oaks location, just steps inside Westfield Fashion Square.  In fact, this outlet—while not the first—is the mother ship of the rapidly expanding franchise, located just a few blocks from Chef Kimmy Tang’s home.  It is here, where Chef Tang begins each day, utilizing the larger kitchen to prep for her other locations.  Another surprise?  There’s a whole lot more to eat than just the eponymous Vietnamese noodle soup.  As 9021Pho begins to revamp and simplify their menu, we ate our way through the bill of fare (tough job, we know) to determine our five favorite non-pho dishes.  Here they are, below.  And relax, these dishes will survive the cut.    

1.   FRESH ROLLS

Do you spend your days clad in Lululemon sportswear?  Do you get B12 shots and frequent juice bars when you need an afternoon kick?  If so, you’re going to like these little guys—fresh jicama, cucumbers, carrots, and mint, rolled up in a translucent layer of rice paper.  We like the pork roll, but if you’ve answered yes to the above, you’ll want the tofu. 

 

2. CRISPY FISH

You don’t have to ask us twice to eat anything fried in Japanese panko breadcrumbs, but this breaded white fish is remarkably delicate and slightly sweet.  Topped in a design of spicy aioli, it’s the sort of dish you can’t help but order every visit. 

 

3. GARLIC EGGPLANT

Japanese eggplant is the longer, leaner cousin of regular eggplant, and in this rendition it’s halved and grilled over an open flame, until slightly charred.  Cooked with a medley of garlic shallots and peanuts, this beauty is then doused with sweet vinaigrette. 

 

4. CHARBROILED PORK BUN SALAD

Pork in a salad sounds, shall we say, counterproductive?  But here it feels so, so right.  Slivers of pork are layered over a bed of vermicelli noodles, julienned carrots, bean sprouts and mixed greens, then splashed with vinaigrette.   

 

5. CHICKEN POT STICKERS

The best part of any dumpling, we think, is that slightly scorched area where the dough has been kissed by the frying pan.  The ones at 9021Pho—plump with chicken and bok choy—are gently seared in all the right places, and served with a delightfully acidic ginger soy sauce. 

90210Pho, Westfield Fashion Square Mall, 14006 Riverside Dr., Sherman Oaks, CA 91423. (818) 728-9021.